So far...so good

Either through our own technical incompetence (highly likely) or through the speed of the internet connection here, we have failed as yet to upload a single photo to blogger. So here are a few notes to remind ourselves of some of the highlights to date. Photos to follow, we hope, when we have a better internet connection and more time to do it.

• After and early (4am) start from our hotel in Santiago, a 3 hour flight to Punta Arenas and a 5 hour drive back north, the view of the Torres del Paine from our hotel room when we arrived at the Explora Salto Chico exceeded all our expectations.
• Getting onto a catamaran from the hotel jetty at 7am, walking 12 kms along the Lake dotted with icebergs to Refugio Grey and then taking another boat up close to the glacier while drinking pisco sours made with ice from the glacier. The captain, who has apparently done the job for 25 years was not drinking fortunately so we were spared a titanic moment!
• The blueness of the glacier. Who knew?
• Walking to the Lago Amargo by way of an overhang with paintings by the Aonikenk Indians, the indigenous people of the region who were wiped out through disease, by being hunted (yes), shipped off to Europe to appear in exhibitions as living savages in the 19th century and by alcohol. No wonder they were driven to drink.
• On the same walk seeing herds of guanaco and nandues, learning about their habits and watching condors and flamingoes in flight, the latter from above-so graceful and so pink! (no pumas as yet, although we saw an Andean deer as we came back from Toro heights today-apparently one of only 50 left in the park.)
• Rising to the challenge of walking up and down very steep hills, learning how to use sticks and some of the techniques that have enabled us to walk 50k in the last 4 days.
• The enthusiasm, knowledge and professionalism of the guides.
• The hotel, its staff, the food, the views, the open air hot tubs down by the lake-and despite its lousy internet connection.