The truth, but not as we know it...
In Cusco we have stayed, and will stay again tonight at the Libertador Hotel, a converted colonial convent, filled with antiques (not just us, stop sniggering at the back!) and original paintings and with a world class restaurant. We travelled to Macchu Pichu on the Hiram Bingham Orient Express and after our exploration of the "Lost City" yesterday we have been staying here at the Inkaterra Lodge Hotel, a tiny oasis which used to be a tea plantation and which is carved out of the cloud forest just at the point where the Amazon meets the Andes. Our bungalow had candles, a log fire and hot water bottles in our bed-and that is modest. Apparently the villas, where I am told members of the British Royal Family like to stay, have private terraces, hot tubs and butler service.
Although we have tried to eat Peruvian cuisine and talk to lots of people-our Spanish has been much more useful than we thought, although for many rural Peruvians it is their second language-it would be foolish to say that in these circumstances we are getting to know the real Peru. One thing is clear though, I think, and that is that the beliefs that underpinned Macchu Pichu are alive and well even today. This morning we went for an orchid walk through the gardens of the hotel and our guide told us stories about the use that shamans make of the plants we were seeing (we also saw amazing birds and butterflies, but thats another story). It was evident that he believed them, as did our guide in Macchu Pichu who told us similar stories and our guide in Cusco. Peru may be a catholic country but people hedge their bets and combine christian and pagan practices as for example our guide in Cusco`s grandmother who used to "exorcise" illness in her grandchildren by passing an egg across their bodies when thy were sick, mixing it with water and then employing a man to take the water out into the streets and throw it on the ground so that the illness would pass to the next person who passed (very charitable!) after which she would make the sign of the cross and go to mass!
Off to find coffee now before we go on another walk and then this evening catch the Hiram Bingham train back to Cusco. Tomorrow we head off to Puno and Lake Titicaca and the Island of the Sun. I am still not clear as to what Macchu Pichu was-we have heard various explanations, including a healing centre, a fort and a pleasure palace. But the Inka culture which produced it and the other places we have seen, building on other ancient civilisations is fascinating and perhaps when I have a faster internet access I will try to write somemore. For now, Mike is pacing......
Although we have tried to eat Peruvian cuisine and talk to lots of people-our Spanish has been much more useful than we thought, although for many rural Peruvians it is their second language-it would be foolish to say that in these circumstances we are getting to know the real Peru. One thing is clear though, I think, and that is that the beliefs that underpinned Macchu Pichu are alive and well even today. This morning we went for an orchid walk through the gardens of the hotel and our guide told us stories about the use that shamans make of the plants we were seeing (we also saw amazing birds and butterflies, but thats another story). It was evident that he believed them, as did our guide in Macchu Pichu who told us similar stories and our guide in Cusco. Peru may be a catholic country but people hedge their bets and combine christian and pagan practices as for example our guide in Cusco`s grandmother who used to "exorcise" illness in her grandchildren by passing an egg across their bodies when thy were sick, mixing it with water and then employing a man to take the water out into the streets and throw it on the ground so that the illness would pass to the next person who passed (very charitable!) after which she would make the sign of the cross and go to mass!
Off to find coffee now before we go on another walk and then this evening catch the Hiram Bingham train back to Cusco. Tomorrow we head off to Puno and Lake Titicaca and the Island of the Sun. I am still not clear as to what Macchu Pichu was-we have heard various explanations, including a healing centre, a fort and a pleasure palace. But the Inka culture which produced it and the other places we have seen, building on other ancient civilisations is fascinating and perhaps when I have a faster internet access I will try to write somemore. For now, Mike is pacing......
posted by Team Tierney | 6:14 PM
12 Comments:
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