To Jerez and back-twice

Last week we went to Jerez with our Spanish teacher, Marga, her brother, Francisco, Bea, who owns the language school with Marga and a German guy called Jacky who lives in Chiclana and who is also learning Spanish. Are you clear about who all the characters are?

Anyway, the Fiestas de Otono (autumn festival) were in full swing and we had a great time wandering round the medieval market, drinking sherry, eating tapas AND, this being the purpose of the evening, speaking Spanish. We were exhausted by the time we got back to Chiclana-in fact, in the car on the way back I temporarily lost the connection between my brain and mouth and lapsed into French! Self-defense, I think.

Anyway, we were impressed by Jerez, which seems improved since our last visit, mainly because it has been pedestrianised. The mayor of Chiclana should be sent there to look and see immediately.(If you remember the traffic problems in Chiclana, you will know what I mean.) So we returned on Sunday with Rob and Lyn to watch the Parada Hipica at lunchtime and drink coffee. And this is some of what we saw.





But we also saw other things too, rather more controversial and not quite so picturesque .

I wrote a little while ago about Spain's new Law of Historical Memory, which, amongst other things, offers pensions to Republican victims of the Spanish Civil War and sets out, as I understand it, some sort of procedure for commemorating those victims (as the Nationalist victims are commemorated in the Valle de los Caidos near Madrid) and reviewing the use of Francoist names and imagery in Spanish cities-statues, street names, that sort of thing.

Like most attempts to strike what people hope will be a sensible compromise-in this case recognition without revenge, I guess- the Law has satisfied neither side fully. Representatives of the Partido Popular (PP), which is the main opposition party, are furious at the setting aside of the pacto de olvido or pact of forgetting, which allowed the transition from dictatorship to democracy after Franco's death in 1975. Meanwhile, parts of the left think it is all too little.

Personally, I can understand why families of Republican victims want the right to grieve in public. And, even though Republican troops also committed atrocities, it is hard not to find the revenge exacted by Franco over very many years and in a non-war situation something more than the predictable tit for tat of conflict.

So, by and large, although I do not share their anarchist politics, on this one I am with the Confederacion General de Trabajdores (General Confederation of Workers) whose banner asserts that Free People do not Pay Homage to Dictators. It is to be found in the Plaza de Arenal, together with a statue commemorating Primo de Rivera, the founder of the Spanish Falange or fascist party which Franco made into the only legal party and his instrument of government.

I am also with the representatives of the Forum for Historical Memory in Jerez who believe that the commemorative plaque to the victims of the war who "died for the defence of democracy and liberty" is too hidden and too fragile. But very dignified.

For a little more on the Law of Historical Memory, try the BBC, here: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/5192228.stm

Smoke gets in your eyes etc.

Just about now the time allocated by the Spanish Government for restaurants over 100m, which want to continue to allow smoking, to provide a partitioned off space for smokers is up. Sadly, many are trying to avoid compliance and, sadly too, smaller retaurants and bars, which can either choose to be smoking or non-smoking, are choosing the former option. Strictly speaking, when going down this route they are also deciding to ban young people under 18 from their premises-but who on earth is going to police this? And given that, by and large, the Spanish do not leave their children at home when they go out, who is going to observe it?

We could be wrong, of course. Not before time a new system of points deducted from driving licences (a clean licence has 12 points) has been introduced and could potentially see people banned for speeding, driving with a mobile phone in hand and drink driving, instead of fines, as is now the case. Certainly the first two are clearly pervasive and the third probably so. Over 300 people died on Spanish roads in August partly as a result.We have also seen more police stopping kids on motor bikes without helmets and, consequently, more young people wearing their helmets. But the Spanish belief in personal freedom-to the point of idiocy in some instances-is a very strong and sometimes perverse legacy of Francoist repression.

In the meantime, we are doing our bit by supporting the one non-smoking restaurant in La Barossa. Our favourite Pizzeria (and nearest restaurant) reverted to smoking after a brave start in the New Year when the law was first introduced, so now we go to Soave, which is a bit of a walk, but smoke free. The Government are also using an advert highlighting the impact of smoking on children, since, if there is anything the Spanish love more than their cigarettes it is their children. We shall see.

Party Animal(s)

I refer, of course, to the cute little duck on the straw in Mike's milk shake,(yes, I do mean milk shake) but I could have been referring to any of the lovely people who turned up to celebrate Alex's 18th birthday recently, or to Alex himself. Nibbles were nibbled, drinks drunk and a splendid time was had by all. But the highlight had to be fantastic birthday cake from La Abeja Maya (Queen Bee) and Alex, by now presiding' over events from his inflatable green plastic chair, made as short work of the candle blowing as he had of the present opening.




And then there was (talking about party animals!) Esther and Paul's visit and (thank you both), a new supply of Yorkshire Tea AND sun dried tomatoes! Scrabble was played (not by us, I hasten to say as we are both useless at it) and we made a trip to El Timon de Roche (timon=rudder, so I guess the allusion is to a ship and the restaurant is indeed on the edge of a cliff....) for dinner. According to this photo we seem to have been drinking water....must be an optical illusion!




Now it begins to feel a little like the end of summer. although we had one of the hottest days yesterday and we still have Ann's visit to look forward to. Perhaps it's because we have gone back to school-just a couple of classes a week at a new local language school to prepare us for the big intensive course in the new year-and because last night we had a "saturday night at the movies" evening with our friends, Rob and Lyn-take-away pizzas on the porch and a late night viewing of Como Agua Para Chocolate ( Like Water For Chocolate), a wickedly funny magic realist Mexican movie. Moving the evening entertainment indoors feels like the start of a new chapter.........

HAPPY BIRTHDAY NAOMI!!!!!!

7th September


We hope you have a lovely day! Here's a picture from our garden in Spain that makes us think of you......